Gordon Holley's
Piano Tuning Notes

 
Piano tuning is a skill, a craft, and an art.  It is also an "Art of Compromise."

 

I recently entered the piano tuning and repair field, as part of my continuing education in the music business.  Here are some words of advice - along with some informative notes - that I would like to pass along to my readers. 

TUNING


My major service, of course, is to tune pianos. 

Throughout most of the piano, every note has three strings, each attached at the top to its own tuning pin which can be turned slightly to tighten or loosen the string.  First, I mute the two outside strings of each note in the octave F to F around middle C and the C one octave above middle C.  Then, with a tuning hammer, I tune the middle string of the higher C to a tuning fork that vibrates at 523.25 cycles per second.  I most often use a "SAT III" electronic tuning device to set the temperament, as I describe below, but I do rely on my ears to guide me in making the fine tuning adjustments in the octaves and the unisons.

Next, I tune middle C to that C.  Then, I tune the interval of the fifth below middle C, an F, so that it is a little narrower than a perfect interval, sharp above perfect, at three beats in a five-second period.  I then proceed to tune the fourth, the G below middle C, a bit wider than perfect, at one beat per second flat below the perfect.  This process is called "setting the temperament."

Once the temperament is established, I proceed up and down the keyboard, tuning octaves to the notes in the temperament octave until all have been tuned.  Then, I check them to make sure they sound right and make any necessary final adjustments.

Many customers ask me, "How often should I have my piano tuned?"

There is no one answer that fits everybody.  Pianos that have tuning pins that are tight will generally hold their pitch better than pianos with somewhat loose tuning pins.  Tuning pins become loose with age, with frequent humidity changes, or if they are constructed of inferior materials.  Pianos that are played frequently or leavily will need tuning more often than those that are played infrequently or lightly.  A piano that is moved around a lot will generally need more frequent tuning than one that stays in the same place.  Pianos in a well controlled climatic environment will stay tuned longer than those in places where temperatures and humidity change often.

As a rule of thumb, it is recommended to customers whose pianos are played a couple of hours a week or less that a tuning once a year if generally sufficient, assuming the pins are fairly tight.  To those whose pianos are used more, twice a year is generally recommended.

I also highly recommend that a humidity controlled environment, if properly operating, could add another 30 years of life to a piano.
 

CLEANING


Piano keys should be washed occasionally, by using a clean cloth, moistened with a mild solution of water and dishwashing liquid (a few drops will suffice).  I especially recommend that this be done if children have access to the piano and have neglected to wash their hands before touching the keys. 

The piano cabinetry should be cared for as you would any fine furniture, using a good quality, non-wax, furniture polish.  However, be sure that you do not spray directly onto the piano, as some of the spray could get inside and corrode metal strings or other parts.

Generally speaking, a piano should remain closed, except when in use.  Avoid placing flower vases filled with water on your piano.  Not only is there a danger of water spilling and rusting the strings or other parts, but it may leave droplets in the piano action, causing strange noises - or even malfunction.  I always check for foreign objects when I open up the piano for tuning.

Even with the best of care, dust will eventually settle into the action and under the keys.  If your piano has not been vacuumed under the keys in the last 15 years, it will probably need to be done by your tuner.  Removing the keys and action, vacuuming the keybed, cleaning the keys, and replacing everything again will generally take over an hour.  Pianos that have come from storage, or from unknown sources, may even harbor cockroaches or mice.  Removing the keys of a piano for cleaning sometimes reveals some surprises.

Dust that settles into the copper windings of the bass strings will cause the strings to sound "dead."  There is really no satisfactory way to remove the dirt in the windings, unless they are removed.  Even then, only partial restoration of their original sound can be achieved.  If bass strings are too dead, they may need to be replaced.

REPAIRS


Piano repairs can be very tricky.  There are over 200 makes of pianos in use today, each one with some peculiarities.  Piano parts suppliers try to keep an adequate stock of the more frequently used items, as well as generic items that can be used on most pianos, even though the original manufacturer may no longer be in business.  Sometimes, an older or rare piano may require the skills of an expert machinist to re-manufacture parts that are no longer stocked.

I continually discover updates on various procedures for repair projects.  It is always interesting and informative to discuss repair problems and other aspects of piano technology with fellow technicians.

BRIDGE REPAIR

One particular area of repair concerns the bridge.

The bridge is a long curved piece of wood that is glued to the soundboard.  The strings pass over top of the bridge, guided by small pins.  It is this direct connection that allows the vibration of the strings to be transmitted to the soundboard, which amplifies the sound.

Sometimes, due to environmental causes, age, or poor construction, the cap on top of the bridge cracks, and the pins become loose.  This causes the sound of the strings to become indistinct, or "buzzy."  To correct this, the cap must be repaired or replaced, and the pins replaced, or glued and tightly re-glued.

REGULATION


In addition to its need for regular tuning and occasional repairs, a piano's action has numberous adjustment points that must be properly regulated in order for the keys to correctly operate the hammers that strike the strings.  These are adjusted at the factory before the piano is sold, but over the years, as things wear down with use, minor adjustments must be made if the piano is to operate at its peak.  A poorly regulated piano, just like an out-of-tune piano, can easily discourage any budding pianist from wanting to practice. 

RECONDITIONING


Reconditioning is the name used by technicians to describe a collection of procedures that rejuvenate a section of a piano.  Back and Belly reconditioning includes the following steps (alphabetially):
 
  • Bridge Pin Resetting
    • The Bridge Pin is given a tap to ensure tightness in the bridge.  This helps to correct false beats in strings, giving the tone of the strings more clarity.
  • Cleaning
  • Coil Tightening
    • The string coils around the tuning pin at the top if its run.  This coil must be tight together to ensure tuning stability.
  • Nut and Capo D'astro Bar Resetting
    • The string travels under and over two bars after the coil around the tuning pin.  This bar often becomes oiled and pitted.  To ensure tuning stability and pureness of tone, these bars are cleaned, and the strings are moved across their normal seat to smooth out any imperfections.
  • String and Coil Bedding
    • The strings must lay tightly across the bridge and not "hang up" on the pin.  At the bottom of the string, the loop that goes around the final anchor, or hitch pin, must also be tight against the plate.
  • Tightening of all Screws, Nuts and Bolts
    • All the fasteners must be tight to ensure that the piano is stable and solid.
  • Regluing Ribs
    • Don't worry too much if you have a crack in your soundboard.  This, in itself, is not important.  What is important is that the ribs glued to the back of the soundboard are tight against the board at the place of the crack.  If the soundboard has pulled away from the rib, they must be reglued to ensure that the board will not buzz or rattle.
      • Note:  A good technician only uses screws to correct this problem,
        if there is absolutely no other way of clamping the rib and soundboard
        together.
  • Repinning
    • If the tuning pins are too loose to hold the string in tune, they should be replaced with a slightly larger pin.  Before this is done, the technician ensures that the pinblock is in good shape and solid, that the strings still have enough elasticity not to break when unwound, and that the soundboard and ribs are tightly glued.
  • Tuning Pin Resetting
    • If the tuning pins are a little loose, they may be given a hard tap, which gives the pin new wood in the pinblock to grab and hold.


gholley@hi-techhousing.com or Gholley237@cs.com

 
 
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